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An Interview with Fabric of Change Campaign Lead, Solene Schirrer...
By Lyndsey O'Connell
The EU's new Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) could have far-reaching implications for the future of fashion, from tackling textile waste to improving transparency across the industry. In her latest 7-minute read, The ESPR: The Cornerstone of the EU Strategy for Sustainable Fashion, our Campaign Lead, Solene, explores what this landmark legislation means for brands, consumers and the transition to a more circular fashion system.
To complement the article, we sat down with Solene to unpack some of its key themes, why this legislation matters, what changes we can expect to see, and why she believes it could be a turning point for sustainable fashion. Read the interview below, then dive into the full article for a deeper look at the ESPR and its potential to reshape the industry.
1. Most people have never heard of the 'ESPR'. Why should someone who just buys clothes on the high street care about this new law?
The ESPR is essentially setting up new standards for the fashion industry, which has been one of the least regulated sector for years. But beyond setting up rules for producers to respect, it's also changing things for the consumer, impacting the design of the clothes they'll see in store for the better and clarify information about the products and how to care for it.
2. You describe the ESPR as a potential "gamechanger". Is that because it changes what brands have to do, what consumers will know, or both?
It's a bit of both. This regulation is a huge step in regulating what brands can put on the market, looking at the composition, restricting substances of concerns and tackling harmful practices like the destruction of unsold goods. On the other hand, the consumer should expect more transparency and easier access to information on the products they buy.
3. One of the most shocking parts of your article is what happens to unsold clothing. What surprised you most when researching this issue?
I believe what is most surprising about this practice is how systemic it is. What I mean is that it is not an anecdotal practice but rather one that is a natural result of the current business models most brands are pursuing. It remains much more profitable to overproduce cheap items, even if it means having to destroy part of your production, than produce more ethically and more slowly.
But even though I was aware of it, I still didn't think it had that much impact. Thinking that it equals the annual emissions of a country like Sweden really put it into perspective!
It also genuinely angers me because, knowing what goes on behind the scenes: the countless reports of human rights violations and the exploitation of land required to make these items, it feels utterly absurd to subject people and the planet to such terrible conditions, only to destroy the very things they were exploited to create.
4. The new rules will ban the destruction of many unsold clothes. Do you think that will genuinely change how the fashion industry operates, or will companies find ways around it?
I think it's a long overdue ban for such harmful practice. I think it's a great step in the right direction, where brands take responsibility for the waste they create and the systems, they put in place that support overproduction and overconsumption (online marketing, buy now pay later schemes, free shipping and return). However, I don't it will alone fix the industry, especially if they exploit potential loopholes the ESPR potentially allows.
5. You mention something called a "Digital Product Passport". It sounds quite technical - but could it actually change the way we shop?
The DPP is essentially a more detailed and reliable way of providing information about an item of clothing. It'll be much stricter, which is welcome when we know up to 40% of current labels are false to some extent. I think it'll bring transparency and better traceability. It won't change the way we shop fundamentally but will definitely change the way we're able to reuse clothing and eventually manage them at the end of its life.
6. Fast fashion brands often make big sustainability claims. Will these new rules make greenwashing harder?
I think this regulation will set better standards regarding bdisclosing information and traceability over the supply chain. Unfortunately, it does not legislate on advertising, which is where most of the green washing happens. Although it might reduce the gap by making clothing more durable through design, it won't prevent brands from manipulating the reality of their impacts.
7. If these new measures work as intended, what changes might ordinary shoppers start to notice over the next few years?
Once the DPP comes in, you will most definitely see the difference on the labelling of items with detailed composition, sustainability credentials, care and repair instructions, and potentially a durability score. Hopefully, with a little time, the Ecodesign requirements will also make better quality clothing more prevalent in the shops, providing us with more choices.
Second-hand shoppers will also see the difference with most likely an increase of brand-new items with the tag ending up on charity shops' rack. Donations of unsold goods will be the first recourse for brands. Some luxury brands might have to use and promote resale platforms like Vestiaire Collectif that specialises in luxury goods resale.
8. You've welcomed this legislation, but you're also clear that it isn't perfect. What's the biggest weakness that still worries you?
I believe this legislation lays the foundation for a better, more transparent industry. However, as with many other EU regulations, its impact depends heavily on how it is applied. If loopholes are exploited to circumvent its most important mandates, if member states fail to use it to its full potential, and if it is not accompanied by complementary measures addressing other aspects of the industry (advertising, production volumes, the revival of local manufacturing, etc.), then we cannot expect a single piece of legislation to change everything.
9. If you could add just one more measure to the ESPR tomorrow, what would it be?
I'm still very curious to see what the Commission will come up with regarding Eco-designs. However, I would have added measures regarding regulating volumes. The heart of the issue when it comes to fast fashion remains with the volumes that are produced. Unfortunately, charity shops are already swamped with fast fashion items that have very little value nor demand. Therefore, I doubt structural changes can happen while brands are allowed to produce billions of items each year, without limitation nor regulating mechanisms against unfair competition from giant online platforms.
